An industrial city within the heartland of the basque country, Bilbao is slowly shaking off its past and looking to the future.
If you visit without asking or prior knowledge you would always think that the city had been this way filled with art and culture and of course good food.
Bilbao has a long history of mining iron ore. A long time trading history with the UK, supplying us with the iron we had already run out of. The city was canalized to allow the movement of the ore in larger vessels to the docks for export.
In 1902 it was reported in the Pittsburg press that the ore fields were completely depleted.
The city continued it shipbuilding and export of goods from the port.
loss of revenue did cause a downturn in the economy over time and the city became a little run down.
During the civil war the Basques opposed Franco.
After the republican surrender there was no love lost, and the city suffered under the repression of Franco.
The real regeneration did not start until 1997 when the Guggenheim opened.
The Frank Gehry titanium clad museum has drawn millions to Bilbao and has led to a economic and arts boom.
Food has taken its place too although it has been a part of the culture all along it is certainly a more vibrant scene now.
The old town offers a cluster of pinxtos bars were the locals and visitors mingle, laugh, drink and eat with the traditional and contemporary bites.
The Basque beer Cruz Campo, ice cold, and a wild assemblage on a French baguette base is the way to start an evening.
Azurmendi has numerous plaudits.World’s most sustainable restaurant included.
We were drawn by the thought of the trip through the greenhouses enjoying the hidden snacks and drinking Txakoli wine while doing so, much more involving than having to sit at a table throughout the whole meal.
The restaurant is situated in a wonderful spot in the hills just outside of town just 20 minuets by taxi. You are certainly transported somewhere special.
Sometimes checking out restaurants online and reading blogs and writings, can have a detrimental effect on the experience, this is what I found, the mystery and surprise had gone.
I knew everything I had seen it in pictures and words and ended up a little deflated by the experience.
The food was excellent the service good the ambience charming but somehow I was experiencing Déjà vu and was not too comfortable with it.
The simple things in life are sometimes the best, as a chef that is so difficult to achieve seamlessly and without effort.
We experienced a perfect sandwich in Mercat de Ribera in the heart of Bilbao to eat in the morning at the local market is always a good idea. It shows the soul of a city what the people like to eat and it’s a democratic view the market feeds everyone.
Breakfast between two slices of bread has been raised to an art form here Spanish cooked ham mayo mustard perfectly cooked golden yoked egg just set between white bread fried in olive oil, Made my day, trip, week!
This market like all others around the world fill me with joy and frustration alike such wonderful produce interesting regional ingredients but nowhere for me to cook.
I guess Ill have to rely on other chefs to do that for me.
If like me your Wife’s name is Mina there should be no other destination in Bilbao than Restaurant Mina. Situated right opposite the market and no doubt a constant inspiration for them and a reminder of the seasons.
Sat at the bar we could see the kitchen an oasis of calm, as is the modern kitchen. As an old school chef I cannot quite work out how it can be so without shouting and heat and fire.
Passion runs deep here and you could feel it in the food and wine, everybody was enjoying their work and we were enjoying the results.
The dinner was accompanied by some remarkable wines and the wine tasting menu@ at 35 euros a bargain.
This is a place happy with what they do and they cook well above the status awarded to them.
As you notice I left out the details of the meal just so the expectation of surprise is left intact.
So treat yourself to Bilbao and perhaps a little mystery.