Travel is good for me, and not for my waistline.
I was compelled to travel to Mexico City. So many stories about the city saying how dangerous it is for the traveller. But how good the food is, the culture, history and art.
I like a little danger and I don't always do what I am told.
My wife was in Tokyo visiting Family and friends, so I took the opportunity.
It seemed I had picked the right time to travel 22c no rain and low humidity and not a busy season.
Mexico City has some comparisons with Tokyo both huge areas and high population, 24 million in Mexico City and 30 Million in Tokyo. Some of Tokyo is on reclaimed land Odaiba is for instance; But Mexico City almost in its entirety is built on a lake.
This is now showing problems as buildings are sinking having been built on old technology reclamation.
The opposite of sinking is rising. The culinary world is currently sitting up and taking notice of México’s food culture and chefs This year Noma will move to Mexico for their pop up with the help of Rosario Sanchez , ex member of the Noma team.
But already without them seven restaurants in the worlds 50 best list are located in Mexico city Pujol, Quintonil, Biko, Nicos, Sud777, Dulse Patria.
I did not eat at them all but did manage the first four.
It was an interesting experience and to be honest not totally as expected. Pujol did really not come up to expectations which was a shame somehow it just did not shine.
The Chef was not there perhaps that made a difference?
However Quintonil, was fabulous, innovation wonderful flavours and textures not always available in Europe, so an eye opener. The Chef Jorge was in the Kitchen and was particularly charming and helpful with recommendations of where to eat.
Biko is headed up by a Spanish Chef, using Mexican and Spanish, cuisines to create a fusion.
Highly rated, but again somehow it just did not gel, also the service did not really come up to standard.
Finally Nicos, Has a lot to recommend it sadly eating alone here is not really what you should do Portion sizes are enormous even for me. So bring a friend or two! Classical Mexican, with a few twists, and a chef who is at the forefront of the slow food movement.
Really tremendous food and service only open for breakfast and lunch.
What really is special in Mexico City is the street food. A taco is not just a taco. It's a springboard for invention and an opportunity to twist old ideas into new.
They are around every corner you’ll never be hungry here.
When you finished eating there is the museums. Around 150 at the last count , diverse interesting and some housed in wonderful iconic buildings. One standout is the National Museum of Anthropology a remarkable site with and enormous courtyard and an epic cantilevered roof supported by an Aztec carved column and a rainwater waterfall.
Inside does not disappoint either two floors on a massive scale contain an entire history of pre and post Hispanic art and artefacts. Laid out chronologically, and with great care style and attention to detail.
This museum sets standards others should aspire too.
Along with museums are the markets, surely not more food!
Well yes some but Mexico City’s markets are as diverse as its museums Voodoo or the witches market is filled with potions and spells various icons or worship including bizarre drug cartel lords icons as saintly protection.
A flower market with roses sold in bunches of 6 dozen for 50 pesos around £2.00 and they were expensive when I visited as valentine’s day was approaching.
Did I mention food? Real quality Tuna, that would be highly prized in Tokyo without the Tokyo pricing.
Butchers medicines fruit and vegetables fishmongers, most notably bugs scorpions and worms all ready for consumption.
I only scratched the surface of Mexico and it showed itself I intended to delve deeper in the future which I hope will not be to far away.
Pujol
Petrarca 254,
Polanco V Secc, CP. 11560
Mexico City,
D.F; Mexico
T. +52(55) 5545 4111
Quintonil
Newton 55, Polanco
Biko
Presidente Masaryk 407 Polanco, Miguel Hidalgo,
11550 Ciudad de México, Distrito Federal
Nicos
Av. Cuitlauac No. 3102, Azcapotzalco, Claveria,
02080 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
+52 55 5396 7090
Sonara Market (Site in Spanish)
Mercardo san Juan
Calle de Ernesto Pugibet No. 21, Mexico City, Mexico, Mexico
Exotic and international market good food stalls and the opportunity of eating bugs.
Scorpion’s are particularly tasty!