Going out for an adventure. There are different paths to take, it depends on the individual, sometimes driven by fate and sometimes by choice.
Mine was choice in 1974 I pulled on my first pair of flares, stacked boots wide collared jacket and took to the high seas as a chef on a passenger liner. While I was discovering a hot south Africa and even hotter kitchens.
Back in England A young Peter Hall was setting out his future path by planting vines on his small farm in East Sussex. Somehow well ahead of the curve at the time, perhaps only five other English vineyards were around at that time and of course you just don’t plant and harvest, so before the wine is in the bottle, time and tide must pass.
The end result with the planted Seyval Blanc and Muller Thurgau was a still white wine, it was the core product of the winery. In 1993 the wine won a gold medal at the international wine challenge. The task of producing a sparkling wine was started in 1995 a 100% Seyval Blanc which was released in 2000 as ‘Millennium Cuvée Maman Mercier’ named after his mother the first of many cuvee’s released all dedicated to friends.
This is where the reason for this article becomes clear, why I’m not writing about or suggesting a recipe this month.
His 2010 wine a 100% Seyval Blanc is named after Koizumi Yakumo this turns out to be his great great uncle, a surprising link but a nonetheless interesting one.
My Sussex home is just a few miles away from his vineyard. My late father was a winemaker although amateur, albeit passionate, his grapes of choice were also Seyval Blanc and Muller Thurgau. Any comparison with the wines sadly stop there.
Much has been written about Breaky Bottom, firstly, the name refers to the chalky soil the terroir of costal Sussex this of course adds to the success of the vines, and Bottom because the farm resides at the base of a valley a perfect nook in the countryside protected on all sides helping with a protection from hard frosts.
Many English winemakers are producing Sparkling wines of great merit, but Where Peter differs is his dedication to time not rushing the process, not chasing a fast profit. Wines take on more flavour resting on the lees, patience is a magic ingredient other do not seem to possess. No non-vintage, all wines have a character not just in name, but the age card is played well throughout the selection available, the oldest being:
2009 Cuvée Gerard Hoffnung a Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier blend followed by 2010 cuvée Koizumi Yakumo Seyval Blanc and 2010 Chardonnay/Pinot Cuvée Reynolds Stone.
In the first easing of the third lockdown, (almost sounds like the beginning of a fairy story) we visited the vineyard and enjoyed the company and wit of Peter who was a charming host and of course font of all knowledge on sparking wines, it was great to hear the history of the great great Nephew of Koizumi. Also the inspiring tales related to each Label. The rather charming and friendly Bengal cat tou tou who enchanted my wife.
Not forgetting the well-stocked Koi pond which enchanted me!
I am lacking in wine related eloquence to describe his wines but needless to say on my first tasting, the Jack Pike 2015 Seyval blanc I was hooked and I was led down the rabbit hole of Sussex sparkling that is Breaky bottom.
I am long returned from my adventure Peter is seems is still on his.
So enthralled, I was compelled to compose a Hiaku
“Chalky loam the seasons Wonderous valley
Skilled hands Long sleep a
Grapes In a glass shining”