It’s so close to home, in just three hours you can be across the sea, into France and different culinary world.
For our wedding anniversary we drove to France, it is so quick, without the wait at the airport.
It’s rather a tale of two chefs, as that is always the source of inspiration that draws us to particular places.
After being enthused by various food bloggers on La grenouillère in La Madelaine sous Montreuil we booked dinner and an overnight stay.
Because of my bad geography skills it was some time before I realized that In de Wulf was only a stones throw away although in Belgium, so we booked that too.
The similarities of the chefs begin to make themselves known when you read and delve a little deeper. Both Alexandria Gauthier and Kobe Desramaults. Are cooking from their respective family home Alexandria was born into a innkeeper tradition.
In 2003 he took over the family restaurant and by 2008 he had regained the Michelin star, the missing link was the dining room the modern cutting edge cuisine seemed somewhat incongruous in an old Auberge setting. This has been resolved in a most dramatic and wonderful way, with the architect Patrick Bouchain at the helm it has a rough, industrial look and feel to it.
Glass walls looking out onto the garden and the vista beyond. The kitchen is open and populated by hanging chains holding lights
A postindustrial, Steampunk kitchen.
Kobe Desramaults. was the son of bistro owners and was an unruly teenager he was sent away to work in a local restaurant this started his passion for food and subsequently found himself a place at ould sluis a 2 star Michelin where he stayed for 2 years continuing his culinary education at Comerç 24 in Barcelona for some further time.
On returning home he took over his parents bistro and proceeded to gain a Michelin star.
He delved a little deeper into the local produce and came to the conclusion that he would only use local produce; this focus catapulted his cooking to a wider audience.
The experience differs greatly. In France in a small village in the shadow of a fort and sounds of a river and birds singing, sits the Auberge. Traditional on the outside and the interior until you enter the dining room.
Our welcome brought grapefruit lemonade and biscuits in the charming reception dripping with the history of the auberge.
The room was large and modern with nice touches including a local digestif placed in the room after dinner.
We chose the tasting menu and wine flight. Seated at the table gazing from the inside to the out with a large flame coming from the waiter station at the center of the room, relaxation and expectancy arrived together with a glass of champagne.
I have to say that I was not totally in love with all of the food some things worked well for me but others somewhat missed the mark. It was all assembled with skill with a penchant for dressing the food at the edge of the plate that I found rather annoying after a few dishes a bit like someone had put a garnish on the plate but actually forgotten the main ingredient.
The wine flight was not an education of flavours and food matching. Based around Burgundian wines I was left wanting for something more engaging.
The breakfast was served in the new part of the auberge a long sunlit room overlooking the gardens.
Almost like a breakfast picnic cold rice pudding home made confiture local yoghurt
House made brioche cheese and home cured ham .
This was everything dinner was not bright refreshing unexpected.
I would not deter anyone from a visit here as the whole experience did contain magic just not enough of it for my jaded tastes.
Indewulf (In the woods) Like La grenouillère we went with expectation, from reviews and bloggers.
On arrival just 50 minutes from La grenouillère we were greeted and walked through the building past the herb garden and woodfired oven through another door to our room.
I was almost speechless when they opened the door a large bed in an open plan room with a wonderful wooden double spoon bath taking up space by the walk in shower.
French windows opened up to bring in the vista of the rolling Belgium countryside from our oak decking table and chairs.
After a soak in the bath, and enjoying little snacks and water left in the room.
We strolled to the bar for a pre dinner drink, it seems that everybody else had taken the cue to do that so no seats to be had.
We were directed outside to the terrace close to a burning brazier to take a little of the chill from the early evening air.
We asked for a French 75 cocktail but were told that they “did not grow lemons”
So they could not make it.
We settled for champagne!
Nibbles we offered crispy skin with mustard and others which I can't remember exept they were delicious and they left me wanting more.
We transferred to the dining room bright open airy rustic with the sunset filling the room with a wonderful glow. The mood could not be better.
I chose the wine flight to go with the meal along with the tasting menu.
Bread arrived still warm from being baked in the outside oven, it came with local butter, and rendered porkfat mixed with toasted seeds and granulated pork crackling, we ate 1.1/2 loaves of bread and not much butter. Pork fat rules!
Everything was a revelation from start to finish along with the wines the starters were delivered at a fast pace by the chefs changing with each dish. When our first main course arrived the waiter told us it was our first course, you see that small portions continue throughout the meal but big flavours and interesting textures and inspiration’s make up for quantity in spades.
The chefs delivering the food were totally engaging and passionate about what they do and were happy to answer any questions you could ask.
Back to the now unoccupied bar, for coffee and a wind down from a culinary high.
Perhaps I am being Hard on La grenouillère in hindsight or perhaps its comparison.
But the two together was an unmissable experience and one I am keen to repeat.
Since the writing of this article In de Wulf has closed, Kobe Desramaults now has a new restaurant in Ghent
https://www.chambreseparee.be
